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Textiles naturales > Blog > Galicia in Spain

Galician Pile Fabric – Felpa Gallega – “Galeguiño” design by Anna Champeney Estudio Textil

galeguiño tejido en felpa gallega, la técnica textil gallega

galeguiño en felpa gallega, tejido por Anna Champeney Estudio Textil

Now and again, in my Spanish (Galicia) folk textile research, I come across hand-woven bed-covers decorated with human figures or animals like the figure shown in this sample which I wove a few days ago. 

These coverlets use the technique of Galician Felpa (or gorullo),  ancient loop-pile weaving technique which is over 1400 years old.  It was one of the most common weaving techniques in this northern region of Spain.  In 2009 I had the opportunity to examine Galician textiles in the museum stores of the Museo del Traje in Madrid (The Costume Museum).  There I found one such coverlet, with not just one or two figures, but a whole collection of dancers and craftsmen, all picked out with Galician felpa,  with hundreds of thousands of individual loops.  The simple, naieve, childlike figures on felpa coverlets have a special charm of their own.  They are, I believe, a very traditional feature of traditional folk textile design in Galicia.  In the felpa textiles I weave and sell at my Textile Studio in the Ribeira Sacra in Galicia, I like to incorporate elements of traditional design, especially when I feel they translate well into a modern context. 

Figures such as these have a naieve charm and appeal that is, in fact, timeless.  When I wove the little felpa figure based on the museum coverlet I was aware that I was bringing something that was virtually lost from traditional Galician life and art – and giving it new life again.    It is not enough simply to weave these traditional figures into new felpa textiles, however;  as Galicians themselves are often unaware of their own textile tradition it is very important to explain what these figures mean.  What is the point of having a rich folk art textile tradition if you don´t actually recognise it?  It is for this reason, in part, that I give textile talks about the coverlets, write articles, and teach felpa weaving – so the weaving tradition is once again recognised and people can choose a felpa textile as a culturally-significant as well as a beautiful textile.   Fixing the technique in tradition and explaining how felpa textiles are made also helps people to understand the price of felpa textiles which is considerably higher than normal textiles.  For each individual loop is hand-formed with the weaver´s fingers, not with the shuttle.  This means a cushion may take a day and a half to make. 

Some regions of Spain have lost their traditional textile tradition almost completely.  In Galicia there was a very strong peasant weaving tradition but it is still in danger of disappearing completely.  There are several weavers, like myself, who still make Galician felpa textiles.  The purchase or commission of these textiles in Galicia today is a cultural act full of significance.  It is not simply the purchase of a any old cushion or wall-piece, but an expression of identity.  In Galicia today more and more people are beginning to place a higher value on tradition.  The best way to value a cultural tradition is by keeping it alive.  The best way to keep alive an old textile tradition is by supporting the weavers. 






Warm Winter Scarf Project Part II: Loom Preparation & Weaving


Casa Rústica "Casa dos Artesans" con nieve en Diciembre16 December 2009.  It´s snowing!  Yes, as you can see from the photo I´ve just taken of the view from my textile studio, the Ribeira Sacra looks stunning.  It´s pretty cold though so it´s very appropriate I´m weaving warm wool scarves!  I´m continuing the project I wrote about in earlier – see www.textilesnaturales.com/archives/1092 for the natural dyeing part.  Now I´m onto weaving the woollen scarves.  Below I´ve uploaded some photos so you can see the different stages of loom preparation.  I´m using a Louet table loom for this project.

HOW TO PREPARE A LOOM FOR WEAVING

1.  The yarns to be positioned on the loom are measured and wound on a warping mill

Winding the warp (yarn which goes on the loom)

Winding the warp (yarn which goes on the loom)


 


 


 


 

 

 2.  Setting the loom up with the warp wound onto a beam at the back.  Louet table looms have raddles built-in to the design which help you to space out the warp properly – and avoid problems later on.
 
WindingWinding the warp onto the Louet loom using the raddle the warp onto the Louet loom using the raddle

3.  Weaving a small sample piece.  I always do this when using new yarns or trying out a new design.  Sampling is fun and enables me to try out different colour combinations and yarns.

weaving the sample piece

weaving the sample piece


 


 


 

 HOW TO WEAVE

4.  Weaving – The design requires using two colours so you can see I´m using two shuttles, changing from one to another at regular intervals throughout the design.  This makes weaving slower but the design is far nicer as I can use more colours.

how to weave with 2 shuttles

how to weave with 2 shuttles

5.  The finished scarf. 

woollen winter scarf

woollen winter scarf

6.  … and finally the scarf being worn by its new owner.  This is Galician blogger, Martin Goetz, at the German-style Christmas Fair organised by him and his wife Barbara in Mer (Sober), Galicia.  If you didn´t know about Martin´s blog or the christmas fair visit …. www.lifeingalicia.com

martin wearing the scarf

martin wearing the scarf


 


 


 




Autumn richness in the Ribeira Sacra

autumn vines in the village

autumn vines in the village

November 2009.  

Perhaps you would think that a wet, rainy November here in the Ribeira Sacra doesn´t sound much like fun, but for those of us who live here this is a fantastic month for foraging.  This is the time for collecting sweet chestnuts to roast over the open fire – and even if, like us, you don´t have a chestnut grove of our own – you can fill a couple of baskets up with chestnuts that have fallen on the roadside or onto the trackways.  The best way to cook sweet chestnuts is over an open fire but you can oven-roast them too.    We find that if you leave the chestnuts a few days they dry out slightly and taste sweeter than when completely fresh. 

October and November is also the season for wild mushroom picking and this year has been a bumper year.  The mild temperatures and rain have made for an extra long mushroom-picking season.  There is nothing as exciting as going out into the fields and woods with a few of Lluis´ baskets looking for wild funghi is one of our favourite autumn occupations.  Here in the Ribeira Sacra – unlike the UK where laws of trespass limit your enjoyment of this traditional country pursuit – you are free to pick wild mushrooms in fields and woods – unless they have animals in, have closed gates or fences. 


 

dried fairy ring and cep mushrooms for winter stews

dried fairy ring and cep mushrooms for winter stews

We pick the locals´ favourite, the parasol mushrooms, but also anis-scented horse mushrooms which are good for freezing – no need to blanch or sauté first –  and fairy ring mushrooms and ceps which we dry.  All these go into the rich winter stews which we make from local beef and red wine.  We do our winter cooking in the earthenware cooking pots still made locally by hand which are wonderful to use and look far nicer than industrial saucepans (not that easy for our cottage guests to take back home as souvenirs but those that do are rewarded for their efforts).   

autumn view from est tex y c2aThe autumn colours here are wonderful at this time of year.  Flame-coloured vineyards cheer up even the greyest november days here and on sunny days we are rewarded by the sight of the autumn oak trees turning gold all over the hillsides.    The grass is now lush and green, fully recovered from the heat of summer which reduced it to straw. 


 

autumn colours and natural dyed linen scarf

autumn colours and natural dyed linen scarf

The colours of nature here  always inspire me and so it is no wonder that some of the autumn colours find their way into the hand-dyed woven textiles made at the textile studio. 


 


 

  • Ref.  Bubble Scarf (Rainbow II)  SOLD
  • 19cm x 180cm + fringe
  • Materials:  Linen, hand-dyed with natural dyes, undyed linen, fine wool
  • Washing Instructions:  Gentle hand-wash in warm water. 
  •  Description:  This unusual one-of-a-kind scarf is a double-weave textile – a complex weave with the cloth woven in two separate layers which takes twice the time to hand-weave compared to a conventional scarf.  This double-weave construction, using linen in combination with a very fine wool yarn, gives the piece a deliciously crinkly texture which means that, despite being 75% pure linen, it won´t wrinkle.  The gently glowing colours are the result of hand-dyeing using natural dyes, some of which are from local plants cultivated or collected sustainably near AC Textile Studio (north Spain) where the piece was hand-woven.   After a gentle hand-wash you have the option of ironing the piece or not.  Ironing will make the piece flatter – and wider – whilst leaving the piece un-ironed will enhance the crinkly texture of the scarf.   This scarf is unique and non-repeatable.
  •  Price:  120 pounds + 6.50 pounds p&p (to UK / Europe)
  • How to buy:  email lluisyanna@terra.es