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Textiles naturales > Blog > Uncategorized

Is this weaving? Pedal tie-ups and plumbers

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Atado de pedales en telar de contramarcha (foto: Anna Champeney Estudio Textil). Cada pedal tiene tantas cuerdas como lizos, y se tiene que unir cada cuerda a una leva corta o larga, según el diseño que quieres realizar. Para nuestro telar con 10 pedales y 8 lizos, tenemos que atar … 80 cuerdas.

Making your living as a weaver isn´t a case of sitting peacefully at your loom all day.  Here´s a couple of photos of me tying up the pedals on my loom prior to weaving a new series of linen scarves.

The tie-up is just one of the many processes I need to do as part of loom preparation of my countermarch loom to weave a new design.  Of course, pedal tieups are not really something you can really do in live demonstrations as they´re not that photogenic and people prefer to retain a romantic image so often associated with craft.

So most people never really think about the loom preparation – and often think that the actual weaving is the “hard bit”.

“You must have so much patience to do that” people always tell me when they see me weaving at a fair.  Actually the weaving is sometimes pretty straightforward and relatively quick compared to all the other elements of “weaving”.

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80 cuerdas que se fijan a través de ganchos metálicos a levas (cortas o largas) según el ligamento o ligamentos que quieres tejer. Ejemplo: Si atas todas las cuerdas desiguales (1-3-5-7-9) en pedal 1 a las levas largas se levantarán todos los lizos desiguales al activar el pedal durante el proceso de tejer, permitiendote tejer una pasada de tafetán (foto e información: Anna Champeney Estudio Textil). Cursos de tejeduría en telar y venta de telares Louet.

Most of the time which I spend on weaving a piece is design and research, dyeing, loom preparation, finishing and business stuff.  The actual weaving is a relatively small part of my work as a professional weaver.  Food for thought!  But does the public really want to know this?  Behind the scenes information I think is always interesting….

Talking of which, have a look at the last image on this post.  This is a photo taken by Claire Diamond, my volunteer assistant, just a couple of days ago.  Builders are coming as of next Monday to do some improvements in the studio.  Adolfo the plumber came early.  3 days early to be precise.

And so obviously we weren´t quite prepared for him.  Scarves had to be woven and computer admin done.  So we shared a few yarns with Adolfo, perched somewhat precariously on a stool with his blowtorch whilst we carried on working underneath.  You´d probably be shot by the health and safety police for doing this in the UK these days but here, where ideal conditions aren´t always possible (I did, however, offer Alfonso the use of our steel step-ladder!) you just use your common sense and take special care….  Refreshing really.OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

The meaning of “To be on Tenterhooks”

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A tenterhook – one of many used on a frame as part of traditional cloth finishing, giving rise to the phrase “to be on tenterhooks” (photographed in Ezcaray, Rioja, Spain)

Tenterhooks were metal hooks mounted on a long wooden frame onto which lengths of unfinished woollen cloth were fixed and stretched so that the cloth could be dried in such a way that the width of the fabric could be regulated.  This means the cloth was dried, suspended from the frame and under tension.  Hence the origen of the phrase “to be on tenterhooks” – meaning a state in which a person feels in a state of suspense, for example, awaiting the results of an interview.  These days textile finishing companies use a modernised version of tenterhooks, where metal hooks are substituted by needles and the process is more automated and controlled.

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What do tenterhooks look like? Tenterhook frames like these were used to dry fabrics once they had been woven on the loom and washed in order that the fabric could dry to a uniform width. The origin of the phrase “to be on tenterhooks” becomes clear. Tenterhooks like these were used in the 20th century in Rioja, Spain.

As such, tenterhooks like these are no longer in use.  However there is something refreshingly simple about the original system which enabled small-scale fabric producers to do all the processes in-house.

These days ompanies are obliged to send cloth for finishing to another part of the country, or even to another country (we´re talking about Europe here) to specialist finishing companies.  Of course this pushes up the energy consumption for producing the textiles and of course, the costs.

Most hand-weavers in Europe today hand-wash their textiles as part of the finishing process and for small items and items which have little shrinkage, a large-scale tenterhook frame is not necessary.

 

 

What´s on the looms in March 2013

 

2013 COLLECTIONS 

We´re not spilling the beans yet on our new collection but here´s a sneak preview….  Fantastic quality of the softest wool, with samples featuring the fabulous hues of 100% natural dyes, extracted here at the studio.

As this photo shows, even the reverse side of these double weave fabric samples are attractive …

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 2013 NEW COLLECTION BUBBLE SCARVES

As you can see the loom is nearly ready to weave our next fine collection of fine tubular and double-weave linen double-weave scarves.  Each piece is hand-woven individually in the studio and features own original designs.

Please contact us to request information about availability and prices and an online catalogue.

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50 50 WAFFLE SCARF SERIES

We´re nearing the end of the succesful limited edition series of silk and wool waffle weave scarves.  Each piece is different within the limited series of three pieces, featuring a unique colour combination with glorious natural dyes.  Contact us for more information and availability.

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