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Natural dyes are the colour of choice for Spanish textile designers Anna Champeney and Marta Bahillo

Eco-friendly fabrics from Spain



berberis barberry bark

Barberry bark, one source of local and natural colour at Anna Champeney Estudio Textil (April 2012)



Barberry bark, madder root, dried cochineal and walnut husks are all sources of natural colour used to create the textiles at the weave studio of textile designer Anna Champeney in north Spain.  The studio´s collections include limited edition double-weave linens, double-sided scarves in richly-coloured silk and wool, and a range of linen and wool textiles for interiors, including cushions, storage bags and decorative wall-dividers.   The designs vary with each collection but what unites all these textiles is the rich and harmonious use of natural colour.

The reality is that the colours produced by natural dyes are different to most synthetic dyes today because the complex formulas of natural plant dyes  – a single plant may contain several dyes which combine to produce a particularly rich or subtle colour – are usually too expensive to produce in the context of industrial textile production.



natural dyed textiles by Anna Champeney

Anna Champeney textile collection 2011-12 - waffle weave scarves in silk and wool with natural dyes



This makes natural dyes the ideal choice for certain designers and specialist artisans who seek to produce a high-end product and who also care about the way that textiles are made today and the impact on the natural world.

“I started working with natural dyes as it seemed the obvious choice given the location of the textile studio in rural north Spain where there was an abundance of natural dyestuffs.   Of course, I was also interested in making a more organic or natural product.  For me this meant sourcing dyestuffs as locally as possible, using processes which were efficient, with little waste, and avoiding chrome as a fixative ” commented Champeney.



hand-dyeing gives woven textiles a special touch

Drying yarns dyed with lichen, gorse, indigo and madder at Anna Champeney Estudio Textil in north Spain



The quality of the colours produced was also a factor.  “As a textile designer and craft weaver you often find yourself limited by the commercial colour ranges.   By dyeing my own colours I can achieve incredibly varied and subtle colour blends which lend a special quality to the finished textiles.  This gives me a certain freedom which industrial designers simply do not have”.

Marta Bahillo – Spanish knit designer – opts for natural dyes



Marta Bahillo discovers the world of natural dyes

Marta Bahillo, Spansh knit designer, discovers the subtle colours of natural dyes



Marta Bahillo, a young Spanish knit designer is also moving in this direction which was why she decided to spend time at AC Estudio Texil for some intensive colour tuition.

Working with natural dyes for the first time was nothing short of a revelation for this designer, whose working practice up until now always involved off-the-peg synthetically-coloured yarns. “I really feel the course has changed me because I see colour in a different way now”, commented Bahillo, “I can see subtle changes in tone which I didn´t notice before”.   Moreover, Bahillo was particularly struck by the sheer variety and richness of the colours obtained using natural dyes.  In the context of her work as a knit designer Bahillo sees definite advantages in  being able to have a greater control over the final result. Working directly with the dyes gives her a far greater creative involvement in the process, leading her to comment “As a textile designer I feel more confident than before”.

Natural Dyes and Fashion

But what about the dictates of fashion which result in certain colours dominating the market every year.  Is it important for these new designers to look at colour forecasts for fashion?  Champeney thinks not. My clients tend to have a confidence in their own sense of style and colour and choose colourways which suit them rather than to follow the dictates of  the fashion industry.  They may combine my textiles with clothing from branded fashion but their style is definitely an individual style which is unique to them.  The challenge for independent designers or makers not to follow fashion but to make textiles which are so distinctive and beautiful that each piece becomes a personal classic in its own right”.

More information:

  • Inquiries about Anna Champeney Estudio Textil´s limited edition textile collections – please contact the studio.
  • Textilesnaturales hopes to feature Marta Bahillo again in a future feature.


Village life in northwest Spain – TVG visit the picturesque hamlet of Cristosende and ask what makes it so special…


Textile course in north Spain

Anna Champeney (r) with weave pupil Ana Roman (l) being filmed by Televisión Gallega for the regional magazine programme "Great Places"


Yesterday and today the habitual tranquility and silence of the picturesque Galician hamlet of Cristosende was broken as the village was taken over by the film crew of TVG for the making of Grandes Lugares (Great Places), a regional magazine programme.   Yesterday a good number of us villagers turned up at the old school, to share a glass of local wine, some empanada (traditional pie), and bread with a selection of cheeses and village-made chorizo and salchichón sausage, and explain to the film crew exactly what makes the village so special for us.

Is it the fact that the village has a stunning view over some of the most dramatic scenery in the Ribeira Sacra area of north Spain?  Or that, in a village of only about 30 inhabitants, there are no fewer than 3 local businesses –  the craft workshops with Casa dos Artesans holiday cottage, the Casa Grande rural hotel and bar, and Pepe´s bodega, Viña Perderneira.   Or is it simply the fact that the village has a pretty good atmosphere, with neighbours always willing to help each other out?

This morning the film crew came to Anna Champeney Estudio Textil and Lluis Grau´s basketry workshop to conduct interviews, both with the local craftspeople themselves and Ana Roman, a weave student who explained how satisfying it was to weave her own soft alpaca scarf on a loom – and how relaxing it is too (except, of course, when 5 members of a film crew are filming you!).

Well, we´re not going to tell you anything else for now, but will post up the video link when we know the date of emission, and invite you to watch – and meet all our neighbours here in Cristosende.


Padded doubleweave textiles – Doubleweave tuition option now available – Weaving holidays for intermediate level weavers in Spain


padded fabrics handwoven on the loom

Photo of padded double weave fabric (Anna Champeney Estudio Textil Spain))



double weave tuition available 2012

Weaving "quilted" fabrics with 2 shuttles on a Louet table loom


Giving an interview whilst weaving doubleweave with two shuttles is no easy task – it´s like trying to whistle and hum at the same time (and I only know one person who can do that!), so the TV crew had to wait and watch a little until the moment came to stop weaving and insert the stuffing into the “pockets” and “tubes” created by the double weave!  Weaving textiles on the loom in two layers opens the door to lots of magical and seemingly impossible options – from weaving a textile which is actually wider than the loom you are using to weaving a tube, to weaving two layers of fabric which intersect to create pockets – which can be filled with filling which gives you an effect rather like a quilted textile.  Applications?  Double weave is great for scarves and (using very fine yarns) for clothing fabrics which are really warm and insulating but which can still drape nicely, without feeling not lumpy or thick.   But the thick quilted-effect double weave fabrics can also be used for thick padded jackets, cushion pads, bedcovers and upholstery fabrics.  The only limit is your imagination.

Anna Champeney and Lluis Grau offer one-to-one tuition in their craft workshops and looms for hire to guests staying at their holiday cottage, Casa dos Artesans.  Their availability as tutors in 2012 is already limited so you are advised to reserve the cottage and any tuition well in advance.  Contact.






2012 at Anna Champeney Estudio Textil – new art textile projects – Photos of the Ribeira Sacra and Casa dos Artesans (Galicia) in winter

castora rodriguez
New work in progress.  Patchings series by Anna Champeney, hand-woven linen patching inspired by traditional Galician textiles and photographs of the last elderly weavers.  January 2012

“It´s taken us a while to get back into the swing due to being away in the UK, in Suffolk and London. We met members of the London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers, before and after giving a talk on Galician felpa weaaving on 14 January and visited various galleries in the capital to see contemporary textiles and painting.  But being back in the craft studios again is great.  With commissions, new art textile projects and new courses to work on there is no time to get bored.  We don´t suffer from SAD syndrome either here.  The frosty mornings are very inviting for invigorating walks though, and they give often way to sunny afternoons” – Diary, Anna Champeney, weaver in Galicia (north Spain)

Creative winter retreat in north Spain at Casa dos Artesans





Foto de San Lorenzo en la Ribeira Sacra Enero 2012

Village of San Lorenzo, photographed early morning from Cristosende village






The picturesque village of Cristosende where Casa dos Artesans holiday cottage is especially beautiful against the background of the morning frosts.   If you fancy spending a month or two in the beautiful, peaceful village of Cristosende, then contact us about a long-term let for winter 2012/2013.  The cottage has central heating and double glazing and with truly inspiring scenery it is the ideal place for a creative retreat.

charla sobre felpa gallega por anna champeneyThe London Guild of Weavers, Spinners and Dyers welcomes Galician felpa weaving shortly before a proposal for valuable folk textile research fails to secure funding in recession Spain

Recession means less funding for vital Spanish folk textile research projects, and it was with a sense of disappointment that Anna Champeney and Eva Casado received news that the Juana de Vega Foundation, one of the few in Galicia, were not able to fund their proposed Galician felpa research project.  The project, ambitious in scope, would have included fieldwork, an exhibition of original Galician felpa bedcovers alongside work of new creation, and an accompanying publication.  Time is really running out to conduct field research with the last generation of Galician folk weavers.  Whilst the Juana de Vega Foundation valued the project and found it exciting, it lacked the funds to support it.  This kind of research is simply impossible without financial support and it is unlikely that Eva and Anna will be able to continue their research without finding alternative ways to support the project.  It was therefore very heartening to recall the welcome from the London Guild of Weavers, and the interest members showed in the technique of Galician felpa when Anna gave a lecture on the subject on the 14th January 2012.   It is hoped that a group visit to Galicia can be organised later in the autumn, where it will be possible to see and handle original hand-woven Galician felpa bed coverlets.

More space for weaving courses at Anna Champeney Estudio Textil

Following suggestions from pupils for more space, we are increasing the area we devote to our weave courses at the studio to include a space on the first floor in addition to the ground floor course room.  So if you come to us for weaving tuition this year you´ll be able to choose which space to work in!  We will be making the changes to the space throughout February, however, so regret that we are not able to open the workshop to the public during this time.

Contemporary woven textiles in London – Nao Fukumoto, Margot Selby, Wallace & Sewell

nao fukumoto
Foto de la página web de Nao Fukumoto

It´s not easy to find hand-woven textiles in London and in fact the only ones we found were in Handweavers´ Studio (tube:  Finsbury Park), where we saw wonderful pieces by a number of hand-weavers, and in CAA (Contemporary Applied Arts) on Percy Street (Tottenham Court Road tube) where we saw very delicate hand-woven scarves by Japanese weaver Nao Fukumoto.  Prices vary between 300 – 600 pounds for collapse weave linen scarves of very high quality, with natural dyes.

For contemporary woven textiles designed by hand-weavers, we took a look at the shop of Margot Selby, (Galen Place, a short walk from the British Museum), and found the shop full of her signature fabric, applied to scarves, jackets and even shoes.

Contemporary Weaving Patterns:  Weaving with Colour and Texture by Margot Selby. Book review by Anna Champeney.

I´ve never met Margot Selby but I think she must be a woman of tremendous energy.  This is not just because of the lively use of colour and texture in her designs, but because as well as developing her own textile business, managing a shop in central London and appearing on tv, she has also recently published a book, Contemporary Weaving Patterns, which she describes as ” a unique guide to over 150 exceptional patterns”.  The book is one of the few which could inspire young design-conscious potential weavers in what can sometimes seem like a rather worthy-but-dull area of weaving literature.

Perhaps a coding system for the different projects would also have been useful so less experienced weavers would be able to easily select which of the projects could be tackled by them.  Fine singles yarns, warp setts of 60 e.p.i and projects requiring either 8 shafts or two back beams are not for complete novices, despite text which suggests that the book is for everyone, from beginners upwards.

Really, in order to get the most out of this book I think you need to be confident in using and setting up a loom, know how to calculate yarn quantities for projects (especially as most of the projects require quite a few different yarns and it could work out really expensive if you buy more than you need just in order to cover yourself for the project)  plus a familiarity with cloth drafting and adapting threadings.  Beginners with limited experience in warping or using fine yarns may well find some of the fine yarns and high warp densities quite difficult to tackle.  On the other hand it is good to challenge your limitations and  I have had pupils come to my workshops who have been weaving for a number of years in the UK and maintain that it is “difficult to work with linen”.  Sometimes it is actually better to go for something you like, even if it ends up being a lot more challenging than initially thought and hand-weavers do need to be encouraged to be less cautious and resistent to new or difficult things!  I should also add that to get the most out of this book it is preferable to have an 8-shaft loom as many of the designs require this, and a second back beam is also necessary for one of the warps.  This can be seen as a rather long list of requisites – particularly for beginner weavers, but perhaps a book like this will inspire people to go a little further than they would otherwise aspire to do.    The fact that I don´t really consider this book for complete beginners isn´t a criticism of the actual content of the book, however, only a comment about recommended experience levels required by users, and I think weavers at every level will feel visually inspired by the book.  The use of colour in the designs is really pleasing – a nice change from the rather dull or harsh colours in some weave books – and the section on stripes is useful as is the section on developing a colour palette is a nice addition (again, I note that Margot also supposes that readers know something about colour theory by mentioning the colour wheel without explaining what it actually is).  I think it´s great to include a chapter about the properties of the differernt yarns used in the book and their qualities and it´s a shame there isn´t a suppliers´ list to go with it.  Handweavers´ Studio in London supply many of the yarns by post, for example, even though it could cost a small fortune to acquire all 32 different yarns required by the different designs in order to weave all the samples (actually more, once you take the different colours into consideration).  Weavers in Spain would also find it almost impossible to acquire many of the yarns required – or adequate substitutes – for the different projectsl.  I´m not sure to what extent the value of the book is more for visual inspiration – particularly in terms of the colours and textures used – or as a practical teaching or learning aid.  Whatever, I would recommend the book for weavers´ bookshelves, especially in teaching rooms.  Inspirational and visually attractive weaving books are in short supply and this is a useful addition.